It should be obvious that in a city the size of Seoul there will always be a place that catches you unawares, that opens like a fold of paper in Exquisite Corpse, revealing something at once recognizable and yet utterly, sometimes bewilderingly unexpected. It should be obvious, what with the enormity of Seoul’s population and…
If you’ve ever been to the top of N Seoul Tower after dusk you’ve no doubt noticed a conspicuous swath of the city to the south where the sparkling metropolis has gone almost completely dark. This is, of course, the Yongsan U.S. Army base, and though it’s not marked on most city maps it most…
One of the first things you’ll probably notice when you exit Bulgwang Station is that the air is just a little bit more breathable here than in other parts of Seoul, and being so close to the edge of the city and to the mountains that makes sense. The most dominating feature of the neighborhood…
This is a long post with lots of links – there’s a lot going on in Hapjeong, people – so before we even get started we’re going to get lunch, OK? OK. And we’re going to go to Liz’s favorite sushi joint, Sushi Kimpura, right next to Tapkun (탭꾼) the dance studio where she takes…
This was a stop about which I was finding it difficult to say much, especially in light of the fact that I visited it immediately after Saejeol, and the neighborhoods around both are, for all intents and purposes, virtually identical. The Bulgwang Stream (불광천), Exit 1 or 2, flows alongside the main street here as…
Seoul Sub→urban 