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Cheongnyangni Station (청량리역) Line 1 – Station #124, Gyeongui-Jungang Line – Station #K117

Should you ever find yourself sick of the new Seoul, of the gentrifying Seoul, of the Zara-wearing, cream pasta-slurping, Kakao-tapping, latte-sipping, craft beer-tippling bourgeois masses, well, Cheongnyangni has your cure.  This may be the least trendy neighborhood in the city.  It’s no hyperbole to say that 80% of the people here are over 50.  Nobody’s…

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Hongje Station (홍제역) Line 3 – Station #324

As I’ve mentioned before, I have a particular affinity for the northwest side of town, where things always feel a bit more relaxed, the air smells fresher, and the mountains, so near, seem to be more a part of the neighborhoods’ fabric than elsewhere, interweaving themselves with the manmade structures erected in the spaces between…