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Cheongnyangni Station (청량리역) Line 1 – Station #124, Gyeongui-Jungang Line – Station #K117

Should you ever find yourself sick of the new Seoul, of the gentrifying Seoul, of the Zara-wearing, cream pasta-slurping, Kakao-tapping, latte-sipping, craft beer-tippling bourgeois masses, well, Cheongnyangni has your cure.  This may be the least trendy neighborhood in the city.  It’s no hyperbole to say that 80% of the people here are over 50.  Nobody’s…

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Achasan Station (아차산역) Line 5 – Station #545

(Editor’s Note: Photos by Merissa Quek.) The cover of the Gwangjin-gu (Slogan: A City of elegance, livable Gwangjin) promotional booklet that the kind docent at the Achasan Goguryeo History Musuem handed to me shows an aerial shot of the district, mostly a confetti smattering of densely packed apartment rooftops, broken by the occasional vertical tower. …

Seokchon Station (석촌역) Line 8 – Station #815

(Editor’s Note: Photos by Joshua Davies.) Symmetry.  Seokchon possesses so much of it that it often feels as if you could fold the neighborhood over on itself just about any which way and its halves would fit snugly together with a satisfying little click.  Each of the four quadrants that the area’s two main roads…